Faenza, the town of pottery and ceramics

Thousands of people flock to Via Baccarini 19 every year.

They go in through the wooden door and come out again a few hours later with a blissful look on their faces. It isn’t some kind of opium den, but one of the largest European ceramic collections: the M.I.C. or Museo Internazionale delle Ceramiche.

• 
• 
• 

Established in 1908 by Gaetano Ballardini and housed in an old monastery, the M.I.C. has wonderful rooms full of classical Greek, Roman and Etruscan ceramics, Renaissance majolica (schools from Faenza and also Italy and Europe), exotic pottery from Africa and the Far East, and wares from faraway lost cultures, such as pre-Colombian America.

Ceramics, after all, is in the local DNA: the term faience comes from Faenza and was originally applied only to the ceramic-ware produced here. In the 14th century, Faenza was already famous for its artwork and has been ever since.

The finest ceramic piece is the Coppa Bergantini, a cup dating back to the 16th century. It is finely decorated with typical patterns of the Renaissance and has been signed and dated by the maker.