CASTLES AND FORTRESSES BETWEEN LEGEND AND HISTORY
A tour of Matilda's castles
A tour of the castles of countess Matilda of Canossa will be unforgettable. Leave behind Reggio Emilia, then Cavriago and Bibbiano, and you'll come to the castle of Bianello, where a costumed event takes place during the last Sunday of May. Bianello is the last surviving manor in Quattro Castella, which took its name from its four castles. Along the road to Canossa, which cuts through unspoilt landscapes, stop over at the small church of the Madonna della Battaglia (Our Virgin of the Battle), built by Matilda as a votive offering after her victory over the imperial army in 1092. The legendary fortress of Canossa, where emperor Henry IV humbled himself before Pope Gregory VII, now lies in ruins. What is left of this once imposing castle are a few towers and turrets, a cistern, bits and pieces of the crypt of the church of Sant'Apollonio and some crumbled walls of the 16th-century Palazzo dei Ruggeri. Other relics are kept in the small but carefully restored Museo Nazionale “Naborre Campanini”, including a 12th-century baptismal font carved out of one stone block. To the west, the imposing castle of Rossena guarded the approaches to Canossa. On your way back to Reggio, stop over at Votigno, an old town reconstructed using local stone and home to an important centre of Tibetan culture. Along the highway SS 63 you will also fi nd the 18th-century Villa d'Este with its artifi cial lake, once called Fuggi l'ozio (escape from idleness).
The circuit of the "Este lands" (Terre Estensi)
The area around Modena, too, is full of great manors and palaces, most of which can be squeezed into a day's tour. The Castello delle Rocche in Finale Emilia is the typical medieval castle: built around AD 1000 for military purposes, during the Renaissance it was turned into a splendid residential palace. The square fortress of San Felice sul Panaro, further fortifi ed by the towers at its corners, hosted Pope Julius II in 1511. The rulers of Carpi, the Pio dynasty, turned their fi efdom into a small Renaissance capital; in 15thcentury Piazza Martiri they built the turreted and towered Castello dei Pio, featuring a splendid courtyard by Bramante and fi nely frescoed apartments. It was the Pio who, together with the Este, made splendid mansions out of the military outposts of Rocca Calcagnini in Formigine and the castle of Spezzano. A map of the castles, villages and hamlets belonging to the Pio can be found in the Sala dei Casti. Last but not least, the castle of Levizzano Rangone features in a document that dates back to before AD 1000. fi nally, the castle of Sestola, perched on a rock spur, which retains its star-shaped plan that was so common among medieval military citadels.
The Via Emilia towards Imola and the Apennines around Bologna
This itinerary, especially enjoyable during the warm season, will take up a full day. From Bologna head for the Apennines on the border with Tuscany. After Ozzano Emilia follow uphill towards Settefonti for another 6 km (3.7 miles), and you'll find yourself surrounded by the unspoilt hilly landscape of the Parco Regionale dei Gessi Bolognesi e dei Calanchi dell'Abbadessa (sights include the medieval hamlet of San Pietro and the nearby abbey of Monte Armato). As you drive back to the Via Emilia, stop over in the spa resort of Castel San Pietro Terme to see its fortress, built by the Bolognese in 1198. Another fairytale village is Dozza lmolese, with its low houses decorated with bright murals, some of which are painted by internationally renowned artists. The town is dominated by the imposing Rocca Sforzesca, now home to the Enoteca Regionale (regional wine-cellar). The next stop is Imola, famous for its F1 racetrack, but in fact a handsome art town. Visit its porticoed old centre, the Palazzo Tozzoni and several beautiful monasteries and churches. After Imola, head for the Apennines and savour the landscape and towns you will pass along the way, such as Casalfiumanese and the Tower-house of Sassoleone, Borgo Tossignano with the Baron's Palace, Fontanelice with the Torre degli Alidosi and Castel Del Rio. This last town features the imposing Castello Alidosi, the Museo della Guerra (war museum), the bizarre Museo del Castagno (chestnut museum) and the beautiful Ponte Alidosi, an "assback" (schiena d'asino) bridge.
The old castle of the Manfredi dynasty
A reward awaits those who venture beyond traditional tourist routes and one we recommend is visiting the Tower of Oriolo dei Fichi. It is found in the foothills of the Apennines some 8 km (5 miles) from Faenza (a good trek or bicycle ride). This tall tower is all that's left of the 1476 castle of the Manfredi dynasty, the local rulers. Originally a bulwark and a watchtower which guarded the castle from enemy raids, today the tower houses a small archaeological museum and a shop selling local specialities such as DOC and DOGC wines from the Food and Sangiovese Trail of the Hills around Faenza (Strada del Sangiovese e dei Sapori delle Colline di Faenza). But what really makes it worth the trek is the view over the surrounding landscape, vaguely reminiscent of Renaissance paintings. The tower borders onto the beautiful Parco delle Ginestre, a wildlife reserve where rare bird species come to nest and reproduce. Several trekking and cycling paths pass by the tower of Oriolo dei Fichi: try the Sentiero di San Biagio Antico, the Sentiero di San Mamante or the Sentiero Corolla delle Ginestre.
Malatesta castles and fortresses
As you drive from the seaside inland from Rimini, you'll see an increasing number of fortresses, towers, castles and manors crop up from behind hills and rock spurs. They all belonged to one owner: the powerful rulers of Rimini, the Malatesta dynasty. They had the main function of defending the land from external attacks, but were also grand stately homes – which makes this itinerary all the more interesting. Starting from the Valmarecchia just outside Rimini, you will fi nd the fortresses of Santarcangelo and Verucchio (the hometown of the Malatesta family). Then, close by, the castles of Torriana and Montebello face each other. The latter, called Rocca dei Guidi di Bagno, is haunted by the ghost of lady Azzurrina. The Valconca valley is overlooked by the splendid fortress of Montefi ore, which in its time hosted kings, popes and emperors. The castle of Montegridolfo is completely different from the others: it is a fortifi ed medieval village which was crumbling to pieces when it was bought by fashion designer Ferretti, who then restored every bit of it, down to the tiniest house and the last cobblestone. It is now home to a luxury hotel, inns and typical handicraft workshops.
