CHARMING VILLAGES AND ROMANTIC LANDSCAPES

The villages around Piacenza

Every single village of the plains and hills around Piacenza has its own special atmosphere. Fairytale Rivalta, a suburb of Gazzola, has remained incredibly intact, and is a fortifi ed Renaissance village consisting of a castle with a round tower, a huge park and a parish church. Its Museo della Battaglia di Lepanto displays relics of the battle between the Christian and Turkish fl eets (1571), including three original battle fl ags. The second stop is Cortemaggiore, a small “ideal city” planned in 1480 following the ideals of perfection and functionality. Originally meant to be the new capital of the fi efdom of the Pallavicino (an old dynasty who had sworn allegiance to Charlemagne), it is now a perfect example of Renaissance town planning. A particularly scenic spot is Castell’Arquato, a monumental castle perched on the top of a hill overlooking the medieval village below, with its terracotta houses and beautiful sights such as the fortress (1343-1347), the Palazzo Pretorio (1293- 1447) and the collegiate church of Santa Maria (1122). It is also home to an interesting geological museum containing the remains of whales that once swam in the waters of the ancient Po sea (Mare Padano) which covered the area. The last stop of this itinerary is the handsome medieval village of Vigoleno, with its imposing round keep, elegant city walls, the 12th-century parish church of San Giorgio and the oratory of the Beata Vergine del Latte.

A walking tour of Parma

This walking tour of the old town centre of Parma starts from scenic Piazza Duomo and its treasures: the cathedral, the baptistery and the church of San Giovanni Evangelista, which has several art treasures by Antelami and Correggio. The facade of San Giovanni Evangelista is baroque, but the complex (a church, a monastery and a historical apothecary) dates back to the 10th century. Piazzale San Francesco is dominated by the 15th-century Palazzo Cusani, a splendid Renaissance palace, now home to the first Italian opera museum (an interesting place even for those completely ignorant about opera) and an internationally renowned research centre on music which holds important documents. The Pinacoteca Stuard art gallery is on the corner between Borgo Parmigianino and Via Melloni; and if you keep going down Via Melloni, you will find the famous Camera di San Paolo, a part of an old Benedictine convent, wonderfully frescoed by Correggio and Araldi (1541-1519). The charming villages of Romagna

This itinerary can be completed in one day provided that you don’t linger too long in one of the stops: Riolo Terme, Casola Valsenio or Brisighella. Art Nouveau Riolo Terme is better known as a state-of-the-art spa resort, but it is also an art town. See the imposing 14th-century fortress surrounded by the old town centre and the city walls: it was built by the Bolognese as a military outpost garrisoned by 300 soldiers, and later further expanded. Another interesting sight are the ruins of the mysterious abbey (badia) of San Pietro in Sala, now incorporated into a farmhouse. During the spring, Casola Valsenio is pervaded by the smell and colours of lavender. Located in a serene valley near the border between Romagna and Tuscany, the town is famous for being the national centre of officinal herbs with a curious “smell archive” (olfattoteca), but also features architectural treasures such as the abbey of Valsenio. Medieval Brisighella is in the valley running parallel to that of Casola. Its cobbled streets and alleyways wind uphill to the fortress which tops the highest of the three gypsum spurs overlooking the town, while the other two spurs are dominated by a clock tower and the sanctuary of Monticino. Just outside town you will find the ancient Pieve del Thò, a parish church that was allegedly built by Galla Placidia. If you feel like a romantic stroll, try the scenic elevated passageway called Via degli Asini (mule road).

Fascinating Bertinoro

Bertinoro is a small medieval hill town that looks down on Forlì and Cesena, between the Apennines and the coast. The picturesque slope leading to the town centre, located near the top of the hill, is full of traditional old restaurants and taverns that convey the warm, welcoming spirit of Romagna. It also has a superb view over the valley and coast below, which accounts for its nickname, “the terrace over Romagna”. Legend has it that its clock tower was a sort of guiding light for the ships sailing the Adriatic, since it is clearly visible from the sea. Bertinoro is a typical medieval enclosed citadel, with its houses clustered around the fortress and protected by towers, walls and gates. Today it is known as the town of hospitality: every year in central Piazza della Libertà there is a “Guests’ festival” dating back 7 centuries. In the piazza there is an unusual stone column with 12 metal rings: it is the Colonna delle Anella, erected in the 13th century to settle disputes among the local noble families who constantly squabbled over who would have the privilege of hosting foreign guests, be them aristocratic knights or humble wayfarers. Each ring belonged to a family; the ring to which a stranger in need of hospitality tethered his horse (or from which he hanged his hat or staff, if he was on foot) decided which family would host him.

The borghi (suburbs) of Rimini

Low houses, narrow alleyways, children playing in the streets and small taverns: this is not an illustration from a fairytale but Borgo San Giuliano, a world apart just across the Bridge of Tiberius, a few steps away from the bustling town centre and crowded beaches. The people living here (called borghigiani) have retained their distinctive identity, which sets them apart from the rest of the town. Beside the small cafés and hang-outs, the Borgo also features murals depicting scenes taken from Fellini’s fi lms. The best occasion to come here is the twenty-year-old local festival or Festa de’ Borg, held in September every even-numbered year, which puts on dances, entertainment and food stalls. Another picturesque part of Rimini is Borgo San Giovanni across the Arch of Augustus, where a similar festival is held every July. A third festival is that of Borgo Sant’Andrea near Piazza Mazzini, which has interesting sights such as the old Lavatoio (wash-house), the Foro Boario (old cattle market), Piazza dei Gessi and the Fornace Fabbri (a brick kiln).